The First Swell
The locals talked it up...big, hollow, powerful and shallow lava reefs. If your a little confused on what i am talking about, please resume ebaying or pornsurfing.
Yes, the first swell of the surfing season has hit Lanzarote. Although it was a little windy, it wetted the appetite for more. The wave wasn't exactly what the locals described, but it was definetly pretty big and powerful. Given a offshore wind and a lower tide, i think they would be pretty much spot on.
As shown by the pictures, there was a bit of surface chop which made the
chunky left handers a bit difficult. The surfing fitness wasn't quite there either and honestly, i should of put on goggles and a swimming cap because i caught only a handful of waves.
Just when i was getting a bit of confidence up, what should happend? My leg rope broke. Having one of my better rides, the wave sectioned off so as usual i jumped off my board only to feel the horrible feeling of having a sudden release in pull from my legrope, similar to fishing when reeling in the catch of the day only to loose it at the last second. Surfacing, all i could see was white water with no board in view. After a few minutes paddling and scrambling up the rocks, a local fisherman very kindly retrieved my board off the rocks and returned it to me. Some how the board was not damaged and i called it a day.
Upon returning home, the wind had kicked in and i got my first sail in 2.5 weeks.
Stoked!